How To Sew A Skirt Onto A Leotard

So sorry that the determination to this tutorial has taken so long!  I take had the post written since forever ago, only I never found time to take and upload photos.  In case y'all need a refresher you can find the earlier parts of this skating dress tutorial here:

Part I: Full general Sewing Stuff
Part 2: Sparkles
Part Iii: Design and Fabric Prep
Part IV: Bodysuit
Role V: Rubberband

And now, finally we are ready for the final stride of the structure procedure – attaching the skirt!  This is probably the near difficult part of sewing the costume (getting it to lie smoothly and drape right tin can exist a bit fussy during the sewing procedure).  Hopefully my tips and advice volition be of employ.

I discussed in an earlier post virtually why I prefer to top-stitch the skirts instead of inserting the skirt into the seam.  Another reason I like to top-run up – you can optimally identify the skirt on the body Later the leotard is constructed.  If you sew information technology into the seam you have to hope and pray a bit too much for my liking.  So, this is my method, though it might not be the most elegant, it does produce consequent results across a wide range of body types.

(1) Figure out where the side seams are

Try on the leotard and pin the forepart skirt at center front and the back brim at heart back.  The point of the 5 on the front skirt opening should be 1-2″ below the belly button.  It should rest on the fullest part of the abdomen pooch (and, aye, I don't care how ripped, thin, or fit you are – at that place will be a abdomen pooch).  This will ensure that the skirt hangs smoothly from the body in the forepart.  Pin the front to the back at the side seams – y'all want to attempt to line up the brim seam with the leotard seam as best as possible.  Although I have TNT patterns, I still do this for every costume I brand because all fabrics hang or stretch just a petty differently – much better to reply to the drape of the fabric than strength information technology to attach to my pattern.

(2) Make certain yous like where the brim seam will be

I likewise e'er await at the location of the skirt seam – I similar the skirt seam to be just at the top of my hip bones on the sides, then smoothly come to a Five-betoken in the front and back.  Sometimes, to go a proper skirt mantle (non too many folds on the front) I have to motility the skirt slice up, but then the seam is likewise high.  Once the skirt is draping right, and y'all have the sides pinned, pin where you desire the topstitched seam to be on the brim (if it isn't already right).  Once this is pinned out, take off the skirt.

(3) Sew skirt side seams and cut skirt top

Mark where the side seams should be and sew them.  I utilise the serger for this, simply become over it using the sewing car at the ends with a zig-zag to ensure the serger threads won't unravel.  Also, if you demand to conform the topstitched seam of the skirt, cut the skirt to your newly marked stitching line.

(4) Pin the skirt to the leotard

This takes a while – you desire to use as many pins every bit possible!  I used an x-pattern to foreclose the skirt from moving when the dress is taken off.  Yous desire pins forth the seam that will exist sewn, but also pins perpendicular to those to assistance keep things in identify.  My communication – the pins NOT along the seam should betoken up – if they betoken down they will go stuck into your skater equally they take the dress off.  Not fun.  If you lot are sewing for a young kid or have to ship the dress far it might be better to use condom pins to pivot the skirt on.  A pain in the you lot-know-where for the seamstress, but much safer for removing the clothes from the body.  For me I simply use direct pins.  When I stitch for others I use safe pins.  I know, that's what makes me so nice.

I use a TON of pins when I am placing the brim.
My communication: Pin centre forepart, heart dorsum, and both sides first.  Then add the rest of the pins.
Also: notice how the side seam and skirt seam match then well.  That's because of steps #1-3.

(5) Run up skirt to the leotard

Ok, the fun part!  Topstitch the skirt to the wearing apparel.  I usually shove the freearm into one of the leg holes for this.  I employ a regular zig-zag stitch 2.5 width, 4.five long.  Some people use fifty-fifty narrower and longer stitches, as they tend to exist even less visible.  This will be slow going!  But that is probably a good matter equally sewing on the skirt needs to be more than precise than the balance of the costume.  At the 5-points on the forepart and back, pivot by leaving the needle in the dress, picking up the presser human foot, and rotating the dress.  Lower the presser foot and go on your way.

Topstitching the skirt – dress is right side out.
Leg hole is around free arm.
Be conscientious to avoid puckers or lumps – the stitching
must exist smooth to get the brim to hang smoothly.

(vi) Attempt on the brim and marking the length

Ok, at this betoken you are most done!  Now you lot take to effort on the costume 1 more time (a lot of trying on at the skirt phase, I know) so you tin marker how long you want the skirt to be.  I like the brim to be about one finger width longer than where the leotard is on the side over the hips.  On the front end and dorsum I eyeball it – you desire to make sure it is long plenty to cover everything, but non then long as to exist distracting or cover too much of the leg.  Trip the light fantastic dresses tend to be longer so that the skirt can take movement and flow, whereas freestyle skirts need to exist short so the skater doesn't trip on them in a sit spin or other fancy position.  Figure dresses tend to be a short or medium length – you don't want to cover upward the leg position or accept the skirt fluttering around, simply you likewise want a more small-scale and elegant costume.  Once the height over the hips and the length at the longest parts on the front end and back skirt are marked, I mark a smooth line to requite the skirt the shape I want information technology to have.  Once you are satisfied with the shape, take it off and cut the skirt with your rotary cutter.

The lower line of pins is where I want to cut the skirt up to.
Shaping of the skirt is important to help with the appearance of leg line.

Hooray, we are done!  And one time I go my national photos all sorted out I will have my contest costumes ready to testify off equally a big reveal!

Source: https://doctortdesigns.com/2013/08/12/skating-dress-tutorial-part-vi-attaching-the-skirt/

Share this post